It's five in the evening as I sit at my desk; a small metal desk with a black scratched, flat surface. The kind of desk that might have once been used in an old classroom. On the desk are loose piles of old papers and projects, and a pile of books I have stacked off to the side in an attempt to make room. On each side of the desk is a tall, black bookcase. Each shelf is completely filled with books which, along with the humidity of this basement, have caused the shelves to become bowed at the middle where the shelf bears the heaviest load. One rectangular window, about three feet across, lets in some white sunlight, or a rusty colored glow at the end of the day. Other than that, there is one bare light-bulb on a tall lamp stand behind me. Besides for the faint sound of the TV upstairs – it is quiet. Whenever I notice that a room is quiet, the silence becomes the most noticeable thing there is. Sometimes the quiet sounds less like peace, and more like a voice that is saying something that I don't want to hear. I try to keep busy, or at least distract myself, because sometimes silence can be the most terrifying sound there is. When everything is quiet, the only thing I have to listen to is my own soul. That is a hard thing to do, especially if it has been a long time since I have really listened.
In my experience with Christian faith, I have become familiar with a verse of scripture that is well-known within this community: “Whatever you do, do for the glory of God”. I have always struggled to know exactly what this looks like, and what kinds of things in life really matter. I don't always take the time to appreciate my own life. I suppose I have done more than the average person has by the age of twenty-six, but it is sometimes difficult to appreciate the beauty that I have in front of me right now. This is why I like to sit at this small desk, slightly too tall, on a chair that is slightly too short, and write. I get to tell all the stories that I didn't notice as they happened. I get to share the details that I rushed right past and didn't take the time to notice. I get to appreciate the people I've met that I regretfully held my heart back from when we were face to face.
I have noticed that the most important things that have ever happened to me are the things that I didn't even notice when they happened. Dirty hands from hard work, a pen to paper, a simple action well done. There is an idea in East Asian thinking that excellence can happen in the smallest of actions and details. Any apparently routine action can be turned into an art form - even making a simple cup of tea.
***
I had met my friend Anthony Miyafuji at a Japanese Bible study in Chicago. He had been an English and Japanese teacher both in the USA and in Japan. I had been interested in East Asian culture for some time now, and Anthony was the person who took my interest, and guided me to learn almost everything I now know about East Asia. He eventually convinced me that I would make a good English teacher, as well. In the summer of 2008, we decided to go to a Japanese cultural event at the Japanese Consulate Center in downtown Chicago. The Consulate Center has regularly held events like these to present some of the traditional aspects of Japanese culture to interested attendees. Today we would be viewing a demonstration of chadou (茶道), which translates to “the way of tea” - a tea ceremony.
Anthony and I walked out of the elevator and into the basement room where the other people were gathering for the event. Everything looked like a typical hotel meeting room – gray carpets, pillars coming down from the ceiling in regular intervals around the room, and dim lighting – except for the woven-grass tatami mat in the middle of the room that set apart the place where the ceremony would be held. The act of performing a tea ceremony is called otemae (お手前 ), and was heavily influenced by Zen Buddhism. Powdered green tea, called matcha (抹茶), is carefully prepared and presented to the guests. Depending on the type of ceremony, light confections are also sometimes served, or a full course meal that can last up to four hours. Tea is said to have first been brought into Japan by Buddhist monks returning from China. Over time, tea came to be used in religious rituals and developed a unique set of aesthetic techniques and philosophies. Aspects like one's interior refinement, humility, and simplicity were emphasized in both the practitioners of the ceremony, and in the actual location in which they were held. The perfection required of the ceremony was a reminder of one's own emptiness, and need for continual personal development.
Anthony motioned that the ceremony was about to begin. Two small wooden tables made out of dark wood sat on the tatami mat. A ceramic jar of matcha, the bowl that would be used to serve the tea, and a thin bamboo scoop used for the tea powder, all lay in their proper places on the tables. A man wearing a simple blue kimono, white tabi socks with the split toe, and woven bamboo sandals walked slowly up to the tatami mat. He knelt down on his knees on the tatami mat, and bowed to the woman on the other side of the mat, who would be the guest for the ceremony. The woman returned the gesture, after which the man moved up towards the implements, and reached his hand out towards the tea pot.
***
It was May of 2011, and my second time going to El Salvador. Myself, and nine other men and women from a church in the Chicago suburb of Aurora had come to help out with the construction of a long-awaited medical clinic in the poor city of Santo Tomas, about a twenty minute car ride outside the capital city of San Salvador, which still has serious problems with gangs, drugs, and violence. Every building has a security guard with at least a machete, some with shotguns or assault rifles. The organization we would be spending the week with, Harvesting in Spanish, had been trying to secure the land rights to be able to build this clinic, but the efforts were constantly impeded by the owner of the neighboring property. Why he was so opposed to this project was unknown to me. After some court battles, the rights had finally been secured to build on the land. The project was being funded by various donors who had knew about the work of Harvesting in Spanish, and thought the project would be a worthwhile cause considering the other nearest medical clinic was about twenty-five miles out of town, and for some people, that could mean walking.
I walked out the door of the dorm we were staying in. Some of the group had already gone out front, and some were still getting ready in the room. The alley ran past all of the other dorms, some of which were for visitors, and some that were for the permanent workers who lived in the compound. There was a iron fence that surrounded this half of the compound on top of a stone wall. Ivy and flowers grew across the fence and along the ground. Looking past the fence, there were tall hills and palm trees as far back as I could see. Makeshift houses and a church were interspersed between within them, and a dirt path led out to somewhere I couldn't see. A piece of fruit fell from one of the tall trees and and made a metallic ding as it hit the corrugated tin roof that covered the alley.
After we had all loaded into the flatbed pickup truck, that we had affectionately dubbed “The Truck of Death”. If you had been standing in back hanging onto the metal framework, that I assume must have been meant for a canvas cover, and going about 40MPH in the cold monsoon season rain, on a mountain road with sharp curves, and about a one-thousand foot drop down on each side – you would understand why we chose that name. I should probably also mention that The Truck of Death had bad brakes, which sounded like the metal on metal screech of a locomotive whenever they were slammed down as we were going down a hill so that we would not crash through a fence or something else. The security guard opened the gates and we started out up the hill, over the stone driveway. You could make in through the small town outside the compound in just a few minutes, but it was filled with character. Those who had never come here before were talking to among themselves, and some of them were trying not to fall out of the back of the truck by hanging onto the metal frame that covered us, though the canvas cover was missing. I looked around and tried to take in the scene. I made eye contact with a young girl in a school uniform waiting on the corner for the bus to arrive. She didn't show any emotion back, just followed the truck with her eyes has we turned the corner. Her mother and some other girls stood and waited with her. A few tiendas lined the side of the road. North American stomachs can't handle raw Salvadorian food, so we only bought things that had been vacuum-sealed whenever we visited them during our stay. Every window and door is barred and locked, even during daytime hours. Robbery is not uncommon here, especially towards visitors. If you want to buy something, you hand your money through the bars and the girl will pass your items through a rectangular opening. Her mother and family can usually be seen inside of the shop, which often doubles as the family's house. A used tired shop, which was essentially three walls of tires with a sign hung across them on a metal pole, and bars lined the side of the road. There was plenty of prostitution and drunkenness at night.
We arrived at the front of the construction site, and our driver honked the horn enough times to attract the attention of everyone within hearing distance. A stone wall surrounded the site, with a corrugated tin gateway in front, which could be locked and unlocked. The latch was opened, and a security guard opened both of the doors. The half-built clinic stood in the middle of the site, the small mountains of dirt, discarded construction supplies, broken cinder blocks, and a few tool shacks. Rebar framework stretched up into the sky, and the second floor of the compound was held up by countless adjustable pillars. We would be pouring the concrete foundation on the far side of the building.
We all jumped out of the pickup truck as it backed towards the large hill of mud that we would be using as part of the mix for the construction. We unloaded all the shovels, five-gallon buckets, pick axes and water bottles, and started our work as a small colony of manual backhoes. Some were at the top of the hill, which was about ten feet high, using the pickaxe to tumble down large chunks of sand and dirt, while others were at the bottom filling up buckets and handing them to me and Matt, who were standing in the flatbed scooping it all towards the front. Matt adjusted his blue bandana and wiped his forehead after a momentary delay with the buckets, “I could do this all day.”
After we had loaded the truck to capacity with the dirt, our driver took the truck to the back of the clinic where the cement mixer was. The group walked behind, since there was no longer room for us in the back of the truck. “I bet this is what they have for us all week”, Dave, the organizer of our group, said. Everyone was wiping their foreheads or drinking from their water bottles, but still talking and joking with each other. We all reached the cement mixer, with all of our shovels and buckets, and took down the metal flaps on the side of the pickup. Reuben had to slam one of the metal pegs out with a wrench. The weight of all the dirt and the old metal didn't make unloading the dirt easy. Alfredo, our driver and also the one who would be supervising us during our work. He was Salvadorian and had been working with the organization for some time. He was probably in his early fourties and will still able to work hard. He wore a tan military type of cap on his head. Alfredo yanked the starting cord on the gas-powered mixer a few times. The handle for the cord had fallen off and all that was left was a knot you had to get between your fingers and pull without letting it slip. Bob held down the mixer so it wouldn't slip and fall down into the pit we would be filling that week – which was about ten feet deep, five wide, and one hundred long. The cinder block sides of the clinic were exposed on the other side.
Alfredo motioned to the group. “Ten buckets dirt. One water. Two scoops cement.” And that was essentially what we would be repeating for the rest of the week. The crew divided into tasks – some on the truck shoveling down the dirt into a pile, some at a water pit filling the buckets for the cement mix, and I stood next to the mixer to shovel it down into the pit when it was ready. There was a makeshift chute made out of corrugated tin that was tied onto the cement mixer with a wire that pointed down into the pit. Matt crawled down onto the bottom to spread the cement when it came down. I looked down and he made a thumbs up, and picked up his shovel. The rest of the crew started dumping the buckets into the mixer, which was spinning and ready to go. Ten buckets of dirt. One bucket of water. One scoops of cement. I looked around at the landscape after the last bucket was mixing. There were houses and shops that were mostly randomly built and scattered throughout the surrounding mountains. Some looked more sturdy. Some were made out of random junk and looked like that could topple like a house of cards. The denser city of San Salvador could be seen far off in the distance. Everything was calm except for the loud engine of the cement mixer.
***
The man leading the tea ceremony picked up the empty ceramic tea pot. Nothing was done quickly or carelessly. Every movement was intentional. Tea tea pot was filled with water, and placed carefully onto the portable stove that was set in the corner of the tatami mat, and left until it was ready to boil. The guest waited silently. She waited in the rei position, feet tucked under her legs, with hands flat on the legs. Even after spending a few years studying Japanese martial arts, I was still never never able to find any way to make this position comfortable, and would usually switch my legs slightly to the side while the teacher wasn't looking to take some of the pressure off of my muscles. The water began to boil, so the man reached for the small bowl that would be used to serve the tea. He placed it carefully into front of him on one of the wooden stools. He reached again for the small jar of powdered tea, and the delicate bamboo scoop carefully balanced on the lid of the jar. Two or three small scoops were put into the bowl. The boiling tea pot was picked up, and water was slowly poured onto the dried tea, and then placed back onto the stove. A bamboo whisk was used to stir the tea into the boiling water. These whisks are made of out one piece of bamboo, with one end cut into very thin strips, then folded back on each other and fastened together to make the shape of the whisk. The hot water became slightly foamy as air was beaten into it. The whisk was placed back with the other implements, and the man used both handed to take the bowl up from the table. Turning the bowl around so that it's front would face the proper direction, he held it out towards the guest, who also took with with two hands and held it up to her lips. The water continued to boil in the tea pot, the air bubbles against the inside of the ceramic made a crackling sound – like the kind you hear when you step onto the ice of a pond in winter and realize that the ice hasn't yet frozen all the way. I kept watching the pot, thinking that it would break any second.
***
The dirt and concrete continued to spin in the mixer. The rocks that been mixed with the sand and dirt crackled against the metal drum in a rhythmic time. We had been working for a few days now and it was beginning to take its toll. The buckets of dirt were not as bad as the 120lbs bags of cement that had to be carried up the hill that led to the cement mixer, and I lost track of how many loads we had done. This load was ready to pour, so Alfredo snapped the latch out of the gears that held the drum in place, and the the weight of the mixture turn the drum onto the tin chute we had made. The cement mix must have had slightly too much water because it splashed onto my jeans, and ricocheted onto Matt's blue bandana as it pour down the chute into the ditch. He turned his head and shielded his face. I began to use my shovel to scrape the rest of the cement mix into the ditch, so that it wouldn't dry and cause us problems later. Metal on metal, and the shovel would sometimes get stuck on a tag of metal that had broken off of the bottom of the chute from wear. Alfredo pulled the drum back into position for the next load. I wiped some sweat from my forehead as the crew began to fill the next load into the mixer. I took off my glove and put some more sunscreen on my face – I always get easily sunburned. We were pretty close to the equator and I could feel it. My work had breaks in between loads of concrete, so I spent most of the time thinking. I looked around at the construction scene. The last of the dirt was being shoveled off of the flatbed truck. The pit of water was now almost empty, and Alfredo was trying to reach towards the bottom to fill up another bucket for the concrete. Some of the mor worn out members were leaning against a wall from an adjacent building. Bob was sitting on an upside-down bucket taking a drinking from his water bottle, and Reuben was leaning against his shovel next to the truck.
Not too many people knew I was in El Salvador. I had only told my plans to my immediate family, and a few friends and relatives. People in the town knew the clinic was being built, but they would never know that I helped build it. We had only filled the ditched a few feet high, and it would probably have to be completed by another group. Some members of the group were on the far end of the ditch, were the concrete still has not been laid. They painted the sides of the brick with white paint to protect it from moisture. Most people in the world probably don't even know that Santo Tomas even exists. As the cement splashed down onto the chute again, I started thinking about the town around me. Giovanni came to mind. His house had been nearly wiped out from the mudslide last year that came down from the surrounding mountains. Half his house went down with the onslaught of dirt and rocks. He had was just about finished rebuilding it. Old truck tires mixed with sand and dirt were used for the foundation. Cinder blocks and rebar for the walls. A tarp was stretched over the section of the house that still didn't have a roof. Last I heard, his son was in the hospital with malaria. I started trying to force myself to be happy thinking of the people that would be helped by this clinic – which would hopefully be completed within the next year, if the funds kept coming in, and I did start to feel a new attitude building. As a finishing touch, one of women that was painting the inside of the brickes painted “OVCC” on the side of the wall, for Orchard Valley Community Church. It would eventually be covered with cement and dirt. The mixer engine spun loudly, waiting for one of the last loads to the day to be finished.
***
The woman finished drinking the tea. “How do you think of it?” “It's perfect, I'm sure” she replied. With two hands, she held it out to the man, who took it with two hands and placed it on the small stool next to him. They both put their hands on the floor in front of them, and bowed to each other. The man put the tea jar back in it's place, and carefully balanced the bamboo scoop on top of the lid. The bowl was placed next to the jar, along with all the other implements. They bowed to each other again, and the woman slowly got up, and walked away from the tatami. The man in his blue kimono bowed again, and by this signaled that the ceremony was completed. “You said you have never seen a tea ceremony before, right?” Anthony asked. “This is my first time seeing one.” Some of the crowd started walking back towards the stairs, and some of them walked around to look at the ikebana flower arrangements. Me and Anthony started walking towards the door. I left the brochure for the program on one of the tables that didn't have flowers on it. I was already carrying too much in my shoulder back to want anything more. The tea pot was still boiling when we started walking out the door. And I still thought it might crack any second.
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